Breaking Fast

During Ramadan, all Muslims (the entire population of mauritania) fast from sunrise to sunset which effectively shuts down the country, delays schools start, and makes for some very grouchy store keepers when you go to buy supplies to make lunch. So a big part of this month in the tradition of breaking fast after the evening prayer is called around 7ish. I have hung out with my family for bits and parts of their breaking fast but last night i decided to dedicate my whole night to sitting with them in the courtyard under the stars to really experience the entire event.

First, as soon as you can hear the pray call from over the loudspeakers of the mosque (they can be heard from any point in town), the family starts to chug liquids and eat some bread and dates (imagine how thirsty you would be after 12 hours in over 100 degree weather with nothing to drink). my family has a freezer so all of our drinks have ice chunks in them (quite a delicacy). there is ice cold water, bissap (a kool-aid type drink made from natural flowers here), hot sugary tea, and milk (clarification- powered milk=disgusting). I feel bad because they were throwing drinks at me until i couldnt drink another sip but i wasnt even that thirsty because im not fasting (and they know that). But the hospitality here is so strong that they wanted to make sure i had the absolute most amount that they had to offer. After that, they walk over to their pray mats a few feet away and all pray in unison (with the oldest son leading). i wrote in my journal by the food haha...

Next, about an hour after breaking fast, the first meal is served. Normally families eat banafe (something like a potato/beef stew) for this meal. It is sooo good and tastes like something grandma winland would make in southern ohio. like hearty american comfort food, except they eat family style around one large bowl on the ground with the hands, just a little different then ohio. my host family was really great about my dietary restrictions and gave me my own little bowl of just stewed potatoes in the gravy and i sat around the circle like everyone else except just eating out of my own bowl (probably the most low-key, least fuss/awkward vegetarian meal to date, finally!). After that meal i was stuffed and felt like i was about to burst but no, theres still the main course.

before the main course is served the tv was brought out to the doorway of the family room and everyone just relaxed and watched the news (unfortunately it was al jazeera in arabic so i couldnt understand it) and started to take naps on the floor mats and pillows that were set up in the courtyard (there is always huge mats laid down outside so youre never actually sitting on the sand). by this time it was about 930 and i was exhausted but was still trying to hold out for the last meal. then the evening call to pray went over the mosque loudspeakers and the whole family started praying again and then afterwards went back to napping. at about 11 i called it quits... but at least i tried to stay up for it all! i was just so full and tired (and i knew i would be eating the whole next day like normal) so i couldnt make myself try and stay awake. the whole family got a good laugh at me this morning and called me out on slipping away to my room and going to bed before the final, big meal.